Dave and I had been talking about a trip to New Mexico, and decided to make it our first trip of 2024. We decided to visit in April which was after the snowy weather and before it got too hot. Our itinerary included visiting three national parks and Santa Fe over a two week period. We created a two-week itinerary so we would not have to drive more than four hours each day, but anyone wanting to repeat this itinerary in less than two weeks, overnight stays in Albuquerque, Las Cruces and Socorro could be skipped. Also, we spent five nights in Santa Fe so we could take day trips, and have a leisurely visit exploring the area.

White Sands NP:

Our first park visit was White Sands. The drive from Albuquerque took 3.5 hours, with a brief stop for lunch. We had originally planned to go directly to the hotel in Alamogordo, but it was not yet 4:00 PM so we decided to get a sneak peek at the park before dinner. After a brief drive through, we returned to the park the next morning for a more extended visit and walk around.

White Sands exists within the Tularosa Basin, which covers 275 sq. miles and is the largest gypsum dunefield in the world. I have never been to a desert before, and was awestruck by the brilliant white sand dunes that go on for miles and miles. If it weren’t for the heat you could trick your mind in to believing the white sand was snow, and the people sand sledding on snow saucers lends to the illusion. If sand sledding isn’t your thing, there are nature trails, a boardwalk, and ranger guided tours offered at various times of the day, including sunset. White Sands is closed during missile testing at White Sands Missile Range, so check the National Park’s website before you plan your visit.

We have a lifetime National Parks pass, but those not holding a pass will pay to enter the park upon arrival. The National Parks has a great mobile app to help you navigate their parks, and provide all the information you need regarding operating hours, fees, and things to do.

Carlsbad Caverns:

The drive from White Sands to Carlsbad is three hours, and the last entrance to the cavern is 2:30 PM so instead of trying to rush our visit, we decided to spend the night in Carlsbad and visit the caverns the next day. Timed reservations are required for the cavern and are separate from the entrance fee (which is covered by a Parks Pass). We arrived at the hotel around dinner time and after a rough time finding good food in town, we finally settled on a mexican restaurant called Mariscos El Buchon.

The next morning we drove about 30 minutes to the park grounds. As we were entering the park property, we were greeted by a large herd of longhorn sheep grazing by the road. It took another 40 minutes to reach the visitor’s center, but the drive through the canyon was gorgeous. There were a number of places to pull off for photo ops, as well as hiking trails for those wanting a closer look.

As you check in for your visit, you will be asked if you want to hike in to the cavern or take the elevator. The “hike” is an aggressive, down-hill trek that is not recommended for those with medical issues. We decided to take the elevator; we did not want to get half way down and decide it was too much for our physical fitness. Once you exit the elevator, it will take a few minutes for your eyes to adjust to the darkness, but within a few feet of walking along the trail, the lighting improves and seeing is no problem. The temperature in the cavern is cool, but after walking for about 15 minutes I removed my jacket and was very comfortable. The loop trail from the elevator to the exit was a little over a mile. I wore tennis shoes and did not have any issue with traction, but there are a number of elevations and people with disabilities may struggle. There are some areas that are not passable with a wheelchair.

Growing up in Virginia, I visited a few local caverns (Luray and Skyline) but was not prepared for the scale of Carlsbad Caverns. The Big Room is the largest chamber in North America at 4,000 ft long, 625 ft wide, and 255 ft high at its highest point. As you meander through the stalagtites, stalamites, pools, and caves, you’ll get a chance to see the ladder that was used by the original discoverers of the cavern. Be sure to talk to the rangers about additional explorations of upper chambers, that were accessed by ropes and helium balloons. It took us nearly two hours to explore the cavern, and we were in awe the entire time.

If you will be at the caverns in the early evening between May and October, be sure to check out the bat flight program to witness the Brazilian free-tailed bats that live in the cavern and emerge each evening for food and water.

We spent the night in Las Cruces to break up the long drive to Silver City, and visited the historic plaza in Mesilla while we were there. If you’re hungry, don’t miss the Spotted Dog Brewery for some delicious, interesting food and good beers.

Gila Cliff Dwellings:

If you liked the Mesa Verde cliff dwellings in Colorado, the Gila Cliff Dwellings are going to blow your mind. The Gila monument contains the remains of a Mimbres Culture community who made use of natural caves to build interlinked dwellings within five cliff alcoves above Cliff Dweller Canyon. The Mogollon peoples are believed to have inhabited the region from between 1275 and into the early 14th century, during the Pueblo III Era. It is not known why the community was abandoned. Archaeologists have identified 46 rooms in the five caves on Cliff Dweller Canyon, and believe they were occupied by 10 to 15 families.

You can start your visit at the visitor’s center for some information about the area, or you can drive directly to the parking area, which is 2 miles away. You will have to hike to the cliff dwellings, which can be mildly strenuous in spots, but there are lots of benches to stop for a rest (bring a water bottle!). The entire trail from beginning to end is one mile.

We were expecting to see the dwellings from a distance and brought our binoculars for that purpose, however, at Gila, you will be walking THROUGH the dwellings themselves, getting an up close and personal perspective. Walking through the ruins of these former homes is at times surreal and fascinating. The individual rooms, doorways and windows are clearly visible and recognizable, and it’ not difficult to imagine people living here. If you’re planning a few days in the area, be sure to visit the hot springs and the Gila National Forest.

For overnight accommodations, we decided to stay at the Bear Mountain Lodge, a lovely bed and breakfast near Silver City with comfortable rooms, beautiful grounds, and a great restaurant. A full, hot breakfast is included in your stay, and dinner reservations can be made 24-hours in advance.

Santa Fe:

We left the Gila Cliff Dwellings for the long drive to Santa Fe (approximately 6 hours), with a planned mid-way overnight stop in the town of Socorro. No offence to Socorro, but there is nothing to do here. We had dinner at Yo Mama’s Grill, which was a pleasant surprise, before settling in for the night at the Holiday Inn Express. The next morning, we received a message from our AirBnb host in Santa Fe that our apartment was ready for an early check-in, and we were making ourselves at home in Santa Fe in no time.

After a week of mediocre dining, we were ready for some good Mexican food, and had a delicious meal at Los Magueyes. This was our first chance to get a look around Santa Fe, and we liked what we saw. Santa Fe is beyond charming, and absolutely CHOCK FULL of galleries, art, boutiques and great restaurants. The Pueblo-Spanish Revival architecture is enchanting, and the entirety of our visit I fantasized about living in one of the adobe buildings. New Mexico’s state motto is Land of Enchantment, and I believe that Santa Fe may have been the driving inspiration for that moniker. If you don’t get enough art around the Santa Fe plaza and surrounding streets, take the short walk to Canyon Road for even more sculpture, jewelry, textiles and paintings. Did I mention Santa Fe is an artists’ haven??

History buffs and fans of the Oppenheimer movie will want to seek out 109 East Palace, just off the plaza, in the back of the Rainbow Man gallery/shop. There you will find a plaque memorializing the secret offices of Robert Oppenheimer, which were visited by every scientist who worked on the Manhattan Project.

Santa Fe is home to some beautiful churches and museums, as well as the historic La Fonda hotel. We had a great lunch in its beautiful courtyard restaurant one afternoon. There is more than enough in Santa Fe to occupy 3-4 days, even if you aren’t an art lover.

Taos:

Most of our time in Santa Fe was spent wandering the streets around the square, window shopping, and eating. We took an excellent day trip to Taos, which was a 90-minute drive. If you make this trip, but sure to take the High Road to Taos (vs. the interstate) so you can maximize the scenic views. We drove through a desert landscape and in to the high elevation where there was still some snow on the ground. On the way, be sure to stop at the San Francisco de Asis church for photos of this fantastic building, which is thought to be one of the most photographed and painted churches in the world. After leaving the church, head directly to Taos Pueblo (it closes at 4:00 PM) to visit this 1,000 year old village of the Tiwa tribe, who still live in the Pueblo. There is a fee to enter, and once inside, visitors are able to take a guided or self-guided tour depending on how much time you have. There is an amazing history at the Pueblo that details the struggles and triumphs of the Pueblo indigenous people. After your visit to the Pueblo, head to the Taos Plaza for food and shopping.

On your drive back to Santa Fe, be sure to stop in the little town of Madrid for more art and souvenirs, and finally, don’t miss a chance to walk across the Rio Grande Gorge bridge for some breathtaking views of the river and mountains.

New Mexico more than lived up to its motto as the Land of Enchantment, and many times during our two week visit we remarked how much the state had exceeded our expectations.